PRENEETA SHARMA
Chitkul, the last inhabited village before the Indo-China border, is located at the edge of India’s boundaries, well beyond the well-traveled routes of Himachal Pradesh. Here, surrounded by glacier-fed rivers and stunning alpine vistas, people talk of the heavenly protection in addition to the beauty of nature.
Because heights aren’t the only thing protecting Chitkul. It’s protected by Mathi Devi, a goddess-warrior whose powers are believed to have turned the tides of history and safeguarded not just the land but the soul of the border.
One of the most potent tales that has been passed down in Chitkul is preserved by oral tradition and unshakable faith rather than being recorded in any book or museum.
While Indian soldiers heroically battled in perilous terrain during the 1962 Indo-China conflict, residents claim that Mathi Devi herself stepped up to the plate. Massive landslides and stone barriers inexplicably obstructed the enemy’s path via the tiny mountain routes as Chinese forces tried to approach Chitkul.
The locals think that these were divinely orchestrated events rather than random occurrences. They claim that Mathi Devi built the mountains to save India’s land and her children.
To them, this is not a myth. It is a live memory. And it is still remembered with reverence, astonishment, and love.
The little yet potent wooden temple of Mathi Devi is located in the center of Chitkul hamlet. The temple, which was constructed in the traditional Kinnauri style, has a golden dome, elaborate wood carvings, and antique stone buildings that are thought to be centuries old.
However, it is a living sanctuary rather than merely a building. The temple is closed for six months each year.
Why?
Due to Mathi Devi’s absence.
No other Indian deity is known to embark on the holy trek that Mathi Devi does every year when winter encroaches on the higher Himalayas.
Her route leads her into Uttarakhand’s Gangotri and Badrinath over the Lamkhaga Pass, which is an incredible 5,300 meters above sea level. She has been traveling this perilous and isolated trans-Himalayan path for centuries.
She never travels alone, which is amazing. She chooses eight or nine villagers—ordinary people, not monks or professional guides—to go with her each year.
They never suffer any harm in spite of the dangers. Not a single scratch. Those who are selected to go with her are greatly honored, and the trip is said to be safeguarded by God.
The distinction between myth and miraculous is further blurred by a unique rite performed in Gangotri.
The holy kund (pond) is used to dip Mathi Devi’s mask, which is her most revered portrayal. Legend has it that once she finishes her bath, the mask lifts by itself, recognizing the spiritual bond between Ganga Maiya and the Goddess of Chitkul.
Locals and pilgrims alike commemorate this unique occasion when two spiritual powers from two different regions—Himachal and Uttarakhand—come into harmony.